Build Log: DIY Clone of a Boss FS-6 Foot Switch

Motivation

After building my new pedalboard (check out my build log here) and getting to play and practice with it, my fascination for effects pedals continued to grow. Looking at plenty of pedal breakdowns and builds, I was inspired and thought, “Maybe this is something I could do.” The first DIY pedal examples I looked at were a bit intimidating, though - while my background is in engineering, I’m more the nuts-and-bolts kind and taking on any pedal project would require lots of time and patience. 

Through some research, though, I discovered that a foot switch would be a great start. My Boss RC-1 looper pedal has an input for one of their FS series switches to expand the pedal’s functionality. While it isn’t an effects pedal, per se, it’s useful, very cheap to build, and most importantly, very simple, and a great stepping stone to building DIY pedals.

Picture of the Boss RC-1. Photo from the Boss website

Picture of the Boss RC-1. Photo from the Boss website

The finished product

The finished product

Process

FS-5 and FS-6 footswitch clones are very well documented across the internet. Access to lots of parts lists, diagrams, and step-by-step instructions gave me the confidence to move forward. For my build, I referred to this Instructable and all my parts were sourced from Love My Switches for about $10 US + shipping.

In my pedalboard build I took advantage of custom 3D printed bracketry, and I was curious how I could do something similar for the foot switch enclosure. This time, however, I wanted to do the entire enclosure. I incorporated a few things into the design based on other foot switches I had seen:

  • An angled face for the foot switches

  • The toggles mounted to the same face as the jack input to keep them out of the way

  • Embedded symbols to show the function of each switch

The geometry of the enclosure made for some really easy and quick prints. Once my parts were ready, I started assembly. This part was made straightforward as well, thanks to the clarity of the assembly instructions. At the end, I used M3 heat set inserts and M3 x 10mm SHCS to close it all up. Now I was ready to make some loops!

Wiring the momentary foot switches

Wiring the momentary foot switches

Wired up with the toggles and input jacks (TRS)

Wired up with the toggles and input jacks (TRS)

Internals of the enclosure with the components all installed

Internals of the enclosure with the components all installed

The base of the enclosure with built-in feet. There are counterbored through holes in the feet to neatly cover up the socket heads

The base of the enclosure with built-in feet. There are counterbored through holes in the feet to neatly cover up the socket heads

The fully assembled foot switch. Check out the “undo/redo” and “stop” symbolism

The fully assembled foot switch. Check out the “undo/redo” and “stop” symbolism

My FS-6 clone sitting pretty with the rest of the rig!

My FS-6 clone sitting pretty with the rest of the rig!

Conclusion

When I first plugged in my FS-6 clone and tried it out with the RC-1 I was a bit confused by the toggle configuration and how that affected the switch functions. The assembly instructions I used had no remarks on the toggle positions, so I just played around with them until they worked as intended. Once I got that down, though, the FS-6 clone worked like a charm! Here is the help page from Roland to get an idea of what the FS-6 can do with the RC-1.

In the end I think it makes the RC-1 looper a lot easier to use. There is less tap-dancing involved trying to hit the switch multiple times to get it to do different things. I will advocate for anything that gets you making music faster, instead of wasting time fiddling with settings.

The printed enclosure itself works fine - I say fine instead of great because it’s much lighter than its metal counterparts, which takes away from the experience a bit. It feels more like a toy than a piece of musical equipment. The other part of it is that the size is inconsistent with the standard enclosure sizes out there, so it doesn’t really have a spot on my pedalboard. As a side note, I did eventually purchase a small 1590A enclosure to try out with this circuit - I plan to switch these two out and see how it changes things.

All that being said, in the end, this thing is just really fun to play with and is a great addition to my RC-1. In addition, it was a very cheap, easy, and quick project to tip my toe into the pedal building world. I would definitely recommend this type of build for anyone looking to get started in DIY pedal hardware!

Build Log: Pedalboard Using 3D Printing and Aluminum Extrusions

Motivation

As we entered 2020, one of my resolutions was to start playing and practicing guitar again - something I’ve done off and on for the last 5 years. It went how most other resolutions do, with lackluster results for a couple of months. That is, until my area enacted a stay at home order during the COVID-19 pandemic. The change to my everyday routine was the perfect catalyst for a rekindled interest in my old hobbies!

Fast forward 1.5 months, and I’ve come into possession of numerous effects pedals. When I started looking at pedalboard options, I felt that almost all pedalboards were out of my budget. I’m no professional musician, and I don’t need premium gear just to hold all my pedals together. At the same time, the cheap options seemed to be of pretty poor quality. With my access to some scrap aluminum extrusions, CAD software, and 3D printers, this was a great opportunity to craft a pedalboard to fit my own specs.

The completed build. The signal chain is: Boss TU-3 Tuner > DOD Compressor 280 > DOD Overdrive Preamp 250 > Joyo Sweet Baby Overdrive > DOD Phasor 201 > Boss DD-6 Digital Delay > TC Electronics Skysurfer Reverb > Boss RC-1 Looper

The completed build. The signal chain is: Boss TU-3 Tuner > DOD Compressor 280 > DOD Overdrive Preamp 250 > Joyo Sweet Baby Overdrive > DOD Phasor 201 > Boss DD-6 Digital Delay > TC Electronics Skysurfer Reverb > Boss RC-1 Looper

Process

My first prototype was small, wide enough to hold just a few pedals. I wanted to test the spacing of the 2040 extrusions. Is it strong enough to hold not just the pedals, but the weight of me stomping the switches? Is there ample room for patch and PSU cabling? Will the pedals sit properly on top? My results were very promising. It was sturdy, I felt the pedals sat at a comfortable height and angle for me to switch them on and off, and the little board made it very easy to move everything together. I did have one issue - there wasn’t a good place to mount the PSU.

Simple prototype built from some scrap extrusions

Simple prototype built from some scrap extrusions

On my next design, I piggybacked the height and angle dimensions off of existing pedalboards, adjusting the bracket sizing accordingly. I found some pre-cut 500mm black anodized extrusions from a local hardware supplier which I thought looked a lot nicer than the clear anodized look (it really matches the black stage gear aesthetic). I was very happy with the extra room afforded by this build, and it wasn’t any more complex than my prototype.

Starting my build. The printed brackets are made with white granite PLA from Push Plastic.

Starting my build. The printed brackets are made with white granite PLA from Push Plastic.

The assembled pedalboard. Nice black extrusions sourced locally.

The assembled pedalboard. Nice black extrusions sourced locally.

Top view

Top view

Corner view

Corner view

Experimenting with pedal layout and comparing the new pedalboard with my prototype. So much more room!

Experimenting with pedal layout and comparing the new pedalboard with my prototype. So much more room!

My pedalboard after adding 3M Dual Lock and doing some wire routing. I was not happy with the way the patch cable went diagonally from the Sweet Baby to the Phasor 201, and ended up replacing it with a longer cable that was easier to route.

My pedalboard after adding 3M Dual Lock and doing some wire routing. I was not happy with the way the patch cable went diagonally from the Sweet Baby to the Phasor 201, and ended up replacing it with a longer cable that was easier to route.

Once it was assembled, pedals and all, I did notice that the single center brace was having trouble securing the top and bottom halves together. Adding a second brace in the center really stiffened everything up. From there, I applied 3M Dual Lock to hold all the pedals down and even found space underneath for the PSU. Using some velcro ties, it was really easy to tidy up the wiring as well. Things really came together well! From there, all that was left to do was turn it on and jam out.

The modified pedalboard with extra bracketry and longer corner-to-corner patch cable. It’s looking really good!

The modified pedalboard with extra bracketry and longer corner-to-corner patch cable. It’s looking really good!

Conclusion

In the end, my second build ended up being very sturdy and spacious. I currently use 8 pedals on it, but I could definitely fit more on if needed, and depending on the size. It’s very nice to use in my everyday playing and (post-pandemic, someday) I think it will be very easy to transport to jams as well. Overall I’m pretty satisfied with how it turned out! If you’d like to try this build out yourself, you can find the STL files on Thingiverse. You can use whatever lengths of 2040 extrusion to fit your needs. From there you just need the proper amount of M5 T-nuts and M5 x 8 fasteners. Good luck, and rock on!